I would like to take a moment and share my impressions about Cusco. It is a charming medium sized town which over the years seems to have expanded into and on the hills surrounding the original city center.  As I have mentioned previously it is hard to accurately categorize the architecture and building styles.  There are clearly some Spanish colonial influences but also a touch of a Caribbean style as well.  But Cusco also reminds me of my early days in Moscow.  On the outside the buildings look a bit run down and well-used but the somewhat dingy facades completely hide the surprises that can be found once you take the time to enter and explore the interiors.

The street our house is located on

The house I am staying in is a perfect example.  The street looks like many of the side streets in the city- rows of buildings with walls and doors fronting the street yielding no hint as to what lies behind.  The initial impression is of a quiet unpopulated deserted area.  A plain white gate wedged between two equally nondescript buildings hides the entrance to the house.  Upon opening the gate you find yourself at the top of some steep steps leading down into what appears to be an alley.  At the bottom of the steps as you follow along the narrow path are doors and more gates leading off to the left and right to other structures.  One of the doors on the left leads to our house.  If you continue past our building you arrive at other homes.

Basically a whole world lies behind that plain white gate.  That seems to be the theme here in Cusco and like Moscow you can never be sure what is behind a door or wall until you actually take the time to explore.  I have passed open gates that have led to courtyards with many different stores and restaurants inside.

The gate leading to our house

Another gate hid a complete basketball court surrounded by a stadium seating arrangement, a totally unexpected sight. Small stores are located throughout the city nestled in walls and openings of buildings.  Like the Moscow of 1998 that I wrote about earlier, you have to pay attention to your surroundings so you know where to find things when you need them.  I am still learning my way around but have already marked in my mind the location of several bakeries!

While walking around the city many small alleyways and passageways reveal themselves, sometimes big enough for one car to pass by, sometimes too narrow even for that.  Because the city is built on the hills a walk anywhere turns into an aerobic event, especially since I am a sea-level, flatland kind of girl.  Even after I have totally acclimatized, however, I think the hills and the ever present steps will remain a challenge.  Many of the streets are brick and those that are not are a mix of large stones and cement.  When it rains some of the streets and steps get slippery so you have to watch your footing.

On the inside of the gate at the top of the steps

The city layout is still disorienting to me.  The streets are really not on any kind of grid but simply wander off in any direction they please.  You may start parallel to a known street but when you reach the next intersection find you somehow had made a turn somewhere and are not where you had hoped to be.  So the penchant to get lost easily in conjunction with the constant up and down means that any exploratory trip will yield lots of exercise.

Door to the house at the bottom of the steps

The main square in Cusco is the Plaza des Armes and here gather the tourists and locals to enjoy the weather.  Surrounding the plaza are several tourist attractions in the form of an old church and museums as well as souvenir shops.  It is a really pretty area and there are always lots of people milling about.  There are many small squares surrounding the main plaza each crowded with people and some with markets.  This weekend I hope to explore the markets and some of the outlaying areas of the city more thoroughly.

Plaza des Armes