Amman, the largest city in the country and home to slightly less than half of the population, is spread out over a series of steep hills which effectively hide the size of the city. Included in the city are three large Palestinian refugee camps, which although started as literal camps with tents, currently consist of permanent buildings. The “camps” today are thriving, well-established compounds that are miniature cities in their own right with the largest comprising a population of 500,000. The roads in, through and around Amman threaded through the hills like spaghetti, being restricted to follow the contours of the hilly landscape. Ramadan started just as we began our trip so the traffic jams happened later in the day as everyone slept in after a late night of dining and visiting.
The temple of Hercules in the Citadel in central Amman.
In the center of Amman is a large, high hilltop that contains the remains of a Roman Citadel, strategically located to take advantage of its view of the surrounding area. The ruins are remarkable and date back further than the Romans to Greek times. The same area was subsequently used by the Islamic rulers long after the Romans were swept out of the area. As a testimony to the variety of civilizations that took advantage of the same location, a temple dedicated to Hercules stood near the remains of a Byzantine Church. Modern Amman blended seamlessly in with the protected historical area making me wonder what other amazing historical sites were buried under the weight of the adjacent neighborhoods.
The Roman amphitheater down the hill from the Citadel.
As we wound down the hill from the Citadel we passed the Jordanian Parliament building and one of the palaces that the royal family uses to entertain state visitors. At the bottom of the hill was an amazingly well preserved Roman amphitheater capable of seating 5000 people. The theater had three tiers connected by incredibly steep stairs, requiring some concentration to navigate. At the top tier, however, the acoustics were so good it was possible to hear what was spoken on the stage far below.
Burial coffins made of clay.
We had some time to wander around old Amman, with its narrow streets and alleyways. Despite the fact that it was Ramadan there were a lot of people moving around the city and traffic was heavy as we approached the historic quarter; pedestrian traffic was also heavy, a mix of tourists and locals. Walking along I was constantly tempted by the spice stores, with their mysterious aromas pulling me in to explore. There were also stores completely devoted to various Arabian sweets, intricately embroidered robes, and the usual mix of vendors selling thematic trinkets for tourists that serve no useful purpose. I also saw several what I will call “do it yourself cologne” stores. The counters and shelves were crowded with different liquid scents and customers, usually men, could request different mixtures. The pungent aromas that assaulted me when passing these vendors was not as pleasant as the spices and I hurried past as fast as possible.
After running around in the hot sun all day we were ready for a break and headed to our dinner engagement– a cooking class! I enjoy learning about and tasting new foods so welcomed an opportunity to explore mid-Eastern cuisine. The cooking school, Beit Sitti, was started by some sisters who had inherited their grandmother’s house. We had a great time playing with spices, learning about different seasonings and most importantly tasting our efforts. One of the dishes encountered more than once while in Jordan was a traditional dish with chicken, rice and grilled vegetables, usually cauliflower and eggplant, layered in a large pot and when finished, turned upside down. If done correctly, the dish remains in the shape of the pot– so tasty and artistic! The following night, before we left Amman, we went to a Lebanese restaurant that was located near the old town and had a very enjoyable meal tasting pretty much everything they had on the menu– it was a LOT of food, but all very delicious. I was looking forward to the hiking on our agenda, especially given the food experiences I already encountered!
